Napoli

My dear friends I cannot describe what an incredible feeling it is standing on the bridge of the ferry boat overlooking the shores and coastline of Calabria. I have just left Sicily and the sound of the water, the warmth of the sun make everything that surrounds me magical, as I look out I can start to see the little villages that make the landscape of Calabria look enchanting. It takes approximately twenty minutes to cross the straight of Messina on the Caronte, this is the name of the ferry boat company, Villa San Giovanni Calabria is where we dock. Southern Italy is so fascinating, it’s history, the beauty, the humbleness and its simplicity make all of it a place to discover and visit, there is so much to see that my curiosity is drawn to the gate of Southern Italy, Napoli. I will continue my travels and will share my daily diary with True Blue Italy that has kindly accepted to share my travel experience in Italy on their blog.

I decide to take the train up to Naples, I step up to the ticket office and buy a train ticket that will take me from Reggio Calabria to Naples, in less than 5 hours I will reach my destination. The train system is very efficient and the thought of travelling most of the way along the coastline makes it interesting. I arrive at Napoli Centrale. I step outside and find myself surrounded by taxi men that kindly ask me “Signora ha bisogno?” everything about the atmosphere is so wonderfully Italian. I’m in Pulcinella’s home, such a chaotic city but the Neapolitans make everything they do look so relaxing. I reach my hotel where two of my dear friends are waiting for me, Anna and Giulio. I have programmed my journey to Napoli, there is so much to see, to do and let’s not forget to eat and believe me during my research as to what to do and see I came across pictures that illustrated the best looking pizza ever, can’t wait to taste it. After our breakfast we were off and started sightseeing, the weather is absolutely perfect, the sun enjoyable and walking through the alleys of Napoli amazing, I honestly do think that when southern people speak, their words are like music and they absolutely almost dance and transport you as they speak to you.



First destination is what I have always dreamed of seeing the Veiled Christ with the transparent tissue-like on his body that is in Sansevero Chapel. As I make my way towards him and admire his beauty, all I could think about was “How can this be possible? It must have been a genius that created this masterpiece.” The statue of the fisherman with the fishing net thrown on him another piece of art, unbelievable, with Anna and Giulio we would make eye contact, no need for words.



As we stepped outside the chapel, we made our way to the street of the Presepi (Via San Gregorio). I heard such much about this street and the stories of the statues that Italians love putting inside of their presepi during the Christmas season, Neapolitans love adding a new piece each year. The street was very narrow and packed with people admiring and buying statues. The statues represented scenes of everyday life, these are true artisans that create each piece, pictures could not be taken of some of them.



We enjoyed our first day on a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus tour. At this point we were very hungry and stopped to taste the most delicious pizza Margherita ever eaten, which originates from Naples, so this was a delicious moment, so so yummy. We also could not resist and tried a couple to many of the wonderful ricotta cheese filled flakey pastry called Sfogliatelle. Let us not forget about the rum Baba we shared, my god we were in heaven, divine! As we walked away, I could still taste heaven in my mouth, telling Anna and Giulio that I will absolutely have another rum Baba before I leave.



We then took a 15 euro shuttle to Pompeii and joined a three hour small group guided tour of this world heritage site. We learned so many impressive aspects in the remains of this huge ancient city that used to be a merchants center inhabited by almost 20.000 people. The uniqueness of Pompei is that together with the nearby site of Herculaneum, you can really immerse yourself in the daily life of the Romans of 2000 years ago. Time stood still and stopped in Pompei in the year 79 A.D when unfortunately it was covered by 6 meters of ashes due to the eruption of the Vesuvio. What is left of the ruins is absolutely fascinating, there are areas of Pompei where you can still imagine the daily life that surrounded it. There are actually human bodies that are mummified due to the ashes that covered them, some of them in gestures of protection with their arms up in the air. What a terrible thing that happened to them, today we admire the remains of the end of life in Pompei.







The three of us ventured twice into the Spanish quarter with its narrow streets that run parallel to the main street (via Toledo) and climb steeply up towards San Elmo Fort and the San Martino Museo. On the second day we used the last of our 24 hours to ride the bus to the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte before meeting our guide. This museum is filled with art, ceramics, armory, and many other artifacts collected by the Farnese. It is the best collection in southern Italy, including the superb painting of Caravaggio. We continued and visited the Cathedral, San Carlo Opera theatre which is the most famous and important theatre in the world. It was built in 1737 and is one of the most antique closed theatres in Europe, walking inside of it staring at its beauty stole my soul and heart away, the thought of being inside of a theatre that expressed the most beautiful of events in the years made me feel so special. Naples like many Italian cities is built upon ancient ruins, and below its churches and streets markets, are the remains of catacombs, Greek temples, Roman theaters, aqueducts and huge empty caverns. Although the guide spoke to us about its history we were not prepared for what we were about to see, as we ventured 100 meters below ground we visited Napoli Sotterranea, a part of the many kilometers of underground tunnels and cisterns built in 1600s and closed in 1884.



As we came out from Napoli Sotterranea we all agreed that it was gelato and espresso time. Gelato is the one to choose, it has no artificial or chemical additives, gelato making is taken very seriously in Italy, we were enjoying our gelato on a cone, and were not wasting not even a drop of it that was melting due to the warm weather, acting like children making sure that none is wasted, ahahahah loved ever moment. Another very important thing that is taken very seriously in Italy is their espresso, mainly in Naples where working as a “caffettiere” is still taken very seriously and it’s in Naples. Believe me my dear friends when I say that it is the best espresso in the world!



To end such an unbelievable tour of Napoli we decided to have a memorable meal. Our tour guide recommended Trattoria da Nennella in the Spanish quarter. As we were making our way to the trattoria you could smell the goodness of the food in the air, and we started to imagine it all, we couldn’t wait. “Buonasera e benvenuti,” our waiter was very good looking, and his name was Michele. Da Nennella is a fixed price, first and second course, plus side dish, plus fruit. The food was absolutely fabulous, delizioso, the waiter was loads of fun, we also started singing and it was hilarious trying to follow, but don’t know how we managed to keep up, and had a wonderful evening.



Our table was close to a suspended basket, each time a waiter would receive a tip, the basket would come down and the tip dropped in the basket. Tipping in Italy is not obligatory it is simply a way of appreciating what you have eaten or done thanking for such a memorable event, and they are very grateful and thankful to such a very normal gesture. Not quietly but the shouts of delight from all the waiters were unforgettable.

A top suggestion - www.trattoriadanennella.

I had a very memorable trip in Napoli the gateway to southern Italy, “the only thing subtle about Naples is its charm, and the city may win your heart at the same time as it is deranging your senses”. The emotions that I had walking along its streets, eating their food, chatting with the people surely won my heart. I will definitely return to Napoli, and believe that my adventure travelling in Italy is going to continue to be unbelievable, all of Italy is full of history, charm, passion and absolutely an incredible eternal beauty, so no matter where I will be travelling in this incredible country, do continue to follow me my dear friends, “alla prossima”.