Ciociaria - Part 1

Dear Friends,

my journey continues and I will share with you my travel diary on the True Blue Italy Blog, which they kindly were happy to have me share.

I am travelling through the wonders of Italy and cannot help but be extremely happy. The atmosphere, the warm sun on my face, the history and the beautiful friendly people that I am encountering along my journey, make everything unbelievably beautiful and romantic, which is what Italy represents. During my last evening in Napoli as I was having dinner with my friends Anna e Giulio at the Trattoria da Nennella in the Spanish quarter I decided where my next journey would take me. My mind was set and couldn’t wait to see and travel to my next Italian destination. Sitting next to our table was an elderly man named Giovanni that was listening to our conversation, excusing himself in half Italian half English asked if he could give me some advice as what to see. I was so happy to listen to his suggestions. I watched as he spoke to me, reminded me of my lovely nonno.

He started to talk about Ciociaria that is in the region of Lazio, and a must visit. Ciociaria is filled with hidden gems, stunning landmarks and attractions. On my journey to Ciociaria I will encounter many treasures that the region has, he explains to me that what will fascinate me the most, are the walled towns, the castles, fortresses and so many other medieval treasures, that just by looking at me and listening to me, the feeling that I gave him was of a romantic person whose eyes glow just by talking about ancient history. Pre-roman italic civilization, cyclopic walls, that imagination and popular fantasy has imagined built by Cyclops.

Giovanni was correct as to understand the type of person that I am, I was literally day dreaming, it was as if I had just stepped into a fairy tale book, a journey that I was going to take and a must see. I continued to listen to Giovanni, I had already decided that this destination was going to be my next journey. But once he started talking about the myths that surround this mysterious land there was no doubt in my mind as to where I was headed to the next morning, we are off to Ciociaria. Italy is everything that I have always dreamed about visiting, from the wind blowing in my hair as I travel through Calabria with its beautiful beaches and myths, to the Barocco of Noto in Sicily up to the incredible ruins at Pompei, not a single thing or stone that I have encountered made me regret my journey, it actually increased my thirst to learn more, to see more. Follow me and let’s make it an unforgettable trip, memories that I will always treasure and that will be written down in my daily diary, waiting for me each time I want to go back and read it.

I did some research and found at Giuliano di Roma near Frosinone a very traditional B&B that gave me a wonderful feeling “La Preta Nera”. Its name (the black stone) derives from the lava rock that you find scattered in its territory and the whole hill town, called Giuliano di Roma, was built back in the middle age, on the crater of a volcano which is no longer active. I called "La Preta Nera" to book a room, the receptionist that answered my call was very friendly and happy to have me as a guest.

My friends also spoke to me about this area which is "undiscovered" by tourists situated just over the border between the region of Naples, Campania, and the region of Rome, Latium. "I don’t think there is one single person who has been in Ciociaria and would not recommend it to someone else! So I think we can honestly say that this is an 'undiscovered' part of Italy and it is where I am headed to".

They suggested that I spend a few days in the area in order to move from one extreme to another of the southern Roman countryside, enclosed by the national park of Abruzzi in the east and by the sandy beaches of Circeo, Sperlonga, Sabaudia, Terracina - known as the Ulysses Riviera - in the west.

My friends gave me a list of several centers to be touched by my journey in the "undiscovered Italy" like Atina, Arpino, Alatri, Amaseno, Anagni, Aquino, many other hill towns in the areas names weirdly start with letter "A", where I could walk through cyclopean walls, lose myself in medieval villages and castles, enjoying the local cuisine and the excellences of the territory (olive oil and wine, goat and sheep cheese, buffalo mozzarella salami and other pork cuts).

They also recommended to visit ancient monasteries embedded in the rock such as The Abbey of Montecassino, one of the most known Abbeys in the world, founded by St. Benedict in VI century A.D., Abbazia di Fossanova, "National Monument" since 1874, oldest example of Gothic-Cistercian art in Italy, then Abbazia di Casamari and the majestic Certosa, founded in 1204 by the will of Pope Innocent III and entrusted, since 1208, to the Certosini monks (hence the name "Certosa").

You can experience all this by sleeping in historic houses where nobles and monks lived, in the historical center of the villages, to fully experience the local culture.

For what I heard, the passion of the locals in Ciociaria, together with their desire to share the delights of their region is a humbling experience for visitors and allow us to live an authentic and unexpected holiday. It seems also that in Southern Latium pride and hospitality reign supreme...

The following morning I rented a Fiat 500, which in my advice is the most Italian car that was ever built, my journey begins. I adjusted my GPS and it told me that in 1 hour and 37 minutes, departing from Napoli after 153 km I would have arrived at my B&B at Giuliano di Roma.

The trip is so relaxing, the countryside that accompanies me is so beautiful, and feels like something from ancient times. I remembered Giovanni talking to me about Cassino which was along my way, so I decided to stop and visit. Perched on a mountain top, the Abbey of Montecassino is truly a unique place. It is charming has a timeless beauty and I found it to be a place of meditation and prayer. The Abbey is completely full of history and life. It is opened to whoever wishes to visit and step back in time, is still a working monastery and pilgrimage site. As I stepped out of the Abbey I was completely surrounded by an unexplainable peace, do visit this remarkable place it is so worth it.

I got back into my red Fiat 500, an amazing car made me feel so part of the landscape that I was driving through, such a wise choice. Continuing my drive along the Highway A1 (Rome-Naples), I decided to exit in Ceprano to follow the signs for Castro dei Volsci; I wanted to stop for a quick look of Castro dei Volsci that was on my way, stunning view from the top of the old hill town known as "The Balcony of Ciociaria" surrounded by a beautiful valley. When you reach the top, you realize you stepped into a lost village overlooking all of Ciociaria. Castro dei Volsci, due to its medieval history, has a strategic position with a very wide and enchanting panorama all around. This delightful village is exactly in between Rome and Naples and before the unification of Italy (1861) it was marked the border between The State of the Popes and the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.

I was surprised to find a bar open and a grocery shop Alimentari with an old T sign Sale e Tabacchi rivendita n° 1. Just in front there was a new sign that indicated a place to eat “La Locanda del Ditirambo".

"Let's check to see if they serve food", I said to myself... "It's lunch time".

A young lady with a very friendly smile opened the front door of the restaurant before I reached the entrance. “Buongiorno Signora, mangia qualcosa?”. No time to say anything I found myself sitting in a comfortable rustic chair in a very familiar atmosphere. I was the only guest and Daniela, the host, probably didn’t speak with anyone in the last few hours... While she offered me complementary Bruschette aglio e olio, she started telling me that the restaurant she now runs was opened by Beatrice Gazzelloni, the owner of an important restaurant in Rome, who had her roots in Castro dei Volsci. The famous Italian flute player Severino Gazzelloni was a member of her family... and "per amore e con passione" for the love of her family "home town" Beatrice took care of all the renovation of an old building that now keeps the style and the warmth of the past and an informal but refined look. The concept that the owner wanted for her cuisine is very simple: follow the natural course of the seasons and be very attentive to local products and local cooking traditions. The restaurant serves its own vegetable growth in its own garden and the cellar is based on an accurate search of both old and new regional labels, as well as other good Italian wine.

Daniela served me a huge portion of homemade fettuccine with ragù of buffalo meat that was very filling and rich of taste.

After a coffee I left to make my way down hill and the words pronounced by Daniela "per amore e con passione" were still echoing in my mind and I suddenly realized that Daniela didn't tell me the end of the story. What happen to Beatrice Gazzelloni? Where is she now?

From Castro dei Volsci to get to my next destination I drove through the enchanting Amaseno valley, filled with buffalo farms (14.000 buffalos), and named after the small river, nearly a stream, that crosses the valley.

The "Arcadic" Amaseno Valley is full of mythological references to the Eneide, the epic poem of the Latin writer Virgilio who based here the legend of Camilla, the warrior queen of the Volsci, Italic equivalent of the Greek Amazon warriors. "Does the name Amaseno come from Amazon?" I was wondering...

The beauty of the countryside that surround me is stunning, Italy and all of its treasures is unique and special. The day was ending and my mind, as a sponge, had already absorbed a lot of this Great Beauty. It's time to rest...

Making my way up towards Giuliano di Roma the B&B La Preta Nera is right in the heart of the historical center of this medieval village, in one of its twisting narrow little alleys. The building at least dates back to the XVII century and it has been thoroughly restored to be used as lodging for guests providing them with all the comforts but keeping its historical charm. Valerio, working in the B&B, as a nice host accompanied me to my room which had a very traditional feel to it. As I entered the room I felt as if I was at my "nonna’s house" in Calabria. Looking around all the details present in this place, I had strong and weird feelings, emotional and exciting at the same time. This place takes you back to the XIX century, sleeping in unique, enchanting rooms, enriched by original wooden beams ceilings and antique furniture.

My friends were right for suggesting me to stay in this pleasant place. Perfect location, 90km from Roma and only 30 minutes away by car to Terracina sandy beaches.

Because I arrived late at the B&B, I didn't make any plans for dinner and there was such a delicious smell in the air. As I stepped into the kitchen, I was surprised to see other guests cooking at the B&B, where an equipped kitchen in common is at disposal for guests to cook themselves something to eat. Inside the kitchen I was happy to find all kinds of ingredients and many things to choose from: beautiful basil plant, beside the plant were tomatoes in a chest.

"Why not try out my skills at making myself a good Italian dish. I have been longing to try this for such a long time. What can I possibly make with those ingredients?" I thought out loud.

Basilico and tomatoes, decision made, a pasta dish is what I will make for myself. I added to the pot genuine olive oil and had some onion simmer in it. I gently added the tomatoes, one thing I have learnt is that Italians are serious about their cooking and especially fresh tomatoes.

"I had such a wonderful idea... I'm so excited to be here in Ciociaria Undiscovered Italy!"