Ciociaria - Part 2

My wonderful journey into Ciociaria happily continues. My personal curiosity and the will to learn more in regards to such an undiscovered part of Italy, made me research as to what Ciociaria offers tourists. The villages and towns are full of history, it’s a very rich territory, historically and architecturally, also offers a naturalistic panorama especially in the Apennines.

As I lay in bed at La Preta Nera, my eyes wondered in the room pleasantly looking at how the building was restored to be used as lodging for guests providing them with all comforts but has also kept its historical charm. So glad I chose the B&B it will allow me to experience a holiday which will take me back to the XIX century, sleeping in a unique enchanting room, enriched with original wooden beam ceilings and antique furniture. I happily fell asleep and was so excited to start off my day in the morning. The sun was shining, I made my way to the window and opened it, what appeared in front of my eyes was beautiful. At a short distance from the village center, I could enjoy the view of beautiful countryside of Giuliano di Roma, a rural area in between Ciociaria and Agro Pontino along what is called la strada della Bufala (the buffalo way).

Looking forward to breakfast and afterwards a pleasant chat with Valerio my host, that will kindly narrate some of the history behind the Preta Nera B&B. As I arrive in the breakfast area what appears in front of me is a very rich buffet, exactly the way my nonna would prepare breakfast for us. Valerio my host is a young man from Rome, respectful of the Genius Loci and tries to carry on local tradition and offers his guests only local products, just baked in the nearby Forno Colungi (10 m from the B&B): ‘mbriachelle (ciambelle con vino), croastatine alla frutta, paste all’anice, bacchette, ciambelle di magro. I was very aware that Italians eat only sweets with their coffee and “caffelatte” in the morning, and I loved and enjoyed every moment of my breakfast.

I patiently waited for Valerio to say goodbye to some guests, in the breakfast area. As we sat in front of another cup of coffee, I gave my compliments to Valerio for making me feel at home and added that I was thankful to him for his time. He thanked me and said that it was a pleasure for him to talk about the B&B’s history. La Preta Nera (the black stone) takes its name from the position of the village, built on the top of an extinct volcano. It was the first guest house to be opened in the historical center of Giuliano di Roma and run by Mr. Abet and the local artist Luca Baldassarra. He went on to explain to me that Mr. Abet after many years spent travelling for work all around Italy and overseas (France, Australia, Cina, Kazakhistan) where he lived for a while, decided to return to Giuliano di Roma with a resolution on his mind. After five years of work in the historical center, he restored his grandaunt’s house and turned into a guest house. By doing so he opened its doors and promotes the village all around the world as a beautiful place therefore a must visit. Wow! What a fascinating story, so much love was put into the building, you can see the care of the details that was put into it.

I then asked him about Giuliano di Roma, he went on by telling me that it is 100 km from Rome and 30 km from the Tyrrhenian sea (Sabaudia, Circeo, Terracina, Sperlonga), situated at the bottom of a greenly imposing mountain (Siserno, that looks like an enormous sleeping buffalo), with its 2.500 inhabitants, has kept its Medieval features and charm, with narrow roads intertwining all the way up to the main Church and small windows overlooking a pristine natural landscape; all this faces the Amaseno valley, what makes it so special is that it is free from modern factories and full of buffalos, a perfect place to go hiking or trekking, bike, horse and donkey riding, this is where you get back in touch with nature, for a holiday of total relax and good food.

Everything that Valerio said to me was so precious making this a magical and timeless journey. I thanked him for his time and kindness and said goodbye, “ci vediamo a cena Valerio e grazie”.

I’m off to watch the making of Gino’s mozzarella at the azienda Agricola Pagliei, just at the foot of the hill town Giuliano di Roma and then I will make my way to the neighbour village of Amaseno to watch Signora Bertina that makes homemade bread.

Gino was absolutely so kind as to explain and demonstrate the art that goes behind the mozzarella making. It is so delicious and enjoyed every bite. He is a very sweet Italian hardworking man that believes in the true value of preserving the authentic tastes of the territory.

What can I say about la Signora Bertina, “meravigliosa” such a joyful lady, happy to make her daily bread. She goes on to tell me that when she steps into the area where her wood burning oven is, she enters a fable. I was taken away by her special spirit, positive attitude and that genuine smile that makes your heart melt. I ate so much bread that I literally felt like I was going to explode ahahahahaha, but believe me when you decide to visit Ciociaria, make sure you try their local bread, it was all worth it.

Back at Giuliano I sat down at a “central” bar and started speaking to a local inhabitant with long white hair and beard (just like Santa) who was also enjoying his caffè. His name was Umberto and he was telling me all about the territory that surrounded us that day. So happy to do so, I listened and took notes. Ciociaria is a pleasant surprise and I must return to visit, there are several tours that can be looked up and done, so many itineraries to choose from. Umberto gave me the names of some villages, Alatri, Anagni, Arpino, Bassiano, Campoli Appennino, Collepardo, Cori, Ferentino, Fiuggi, Fumone, Guarcino, Segni, Sermoneta; lakes such as Canterno and Posta Fibreno and so many castles to visit, Castello Cantelmo near Alvito, Rocca Sorella known also as Castello di San Costo near Sora, Vicalvi, Longhi de Paolis, Castello dei Conti d’Aquino and Castello dei Conti di Ceccano (5km from Giuliano), Castrocielo, Castello Farnese in Pico. Ciociaria also has many lost villages that each have a particular charm to them. From the sea to the mountains, its natural park a must see. We did not only have a caffè together but since there was so much to learn and listen to, we had a nice paysan aperitivo together. “Arriverderci Maria ci vediamo quando ritornerai a trovarci”. Ciao Umberto and “grazie”.

I have learned in my short time here in Ciociaria, that there is a whole territory to discover. I will absolutely look into several guide books that are at disposal in the B&B and will make sure to learn and see all of its beauty. Italy is so incredible there isn’t one single place that you do not travel to, and not find something that dates back to the making of history. Such a complete land will try to visit as much as possible.

I returned to la La Preta Nera and spoke with Valerio telling him what a wonderful day I had. After dinner I returned to my room and planned out my day.

After breakfast I was off again, decided to follow the legends path, and the myths that surrounds this mysterious land associated with the legends of Ulysses. It seems that the ancient hero left many traces of his passage here. In Terracina he buried his friend Elpenor, who fell off the roof of Circe’s house breaking his neck. Ulysses on the island of Ponza lived with the powerful and dangerous sorceress Circe a love story that lasted a year.

Umberto had also highly recommended that I must visit the most beautiful and romantic garden in the world the Ninfa Gardens. I cannot begin to explain my dear friends what I found waiting for me, a dream-like place, definitely a highlight of the entire region of Lazio. I discovered the ruins of a medieval town, of the castle and its walls, churches and residential buildings, all of which were perfectly situated in a splendid natural setting. The sound of the waterfall, the birds, the smell of the flowers in the air made it seems like heaven on earth.

I have come to realize that my journey in Ciociaria will be longer that I expected. There is just so much to see, hills, valleys, country sides, medieval churches and villages, food, wine, breads, olive oil and the list goes on.

Such a complete land will try to visit as much as possible. My desire is to absorb its authentic feel and learn as much as I can about it. So proud of my Italian roots… Italy is so incredibly beautiful, magical, there isn’t one single place that you do not travel to and not find something that dates back to the making of history.

My dear friends until we meet again, Arrivederci for now it just gets better and better so excited to take you with me. I said goodbye to my newfound friends, thanked them for their hospitality, and will definitely return.

Keep following me, I just started to discover Lazio (Latium), the unknown region of Rome…

True Blue Italy that has accepted my diary on their blog is happy to continue to share it with all of you. Keep following me, let’s travel and discover together Italy’s beauty from north to south. Until my next diary page all I can say is that this is “La Vita Bella”.